Sustainable Fashion for All - BRICS Business Magazine - EN

Sustainable Fashion for All

We asked Moscow Fashion Week participants what they expect from this high-profile event and how they develop their brands, talked about inclusion and mindful consumption, and brought up the key fashion world issues for discussion at the BRICS+ Fashion Summit.

02.10.2024

What do you expect from participating in Moscow Fashion Week?
What benefits can the event bring for your brand?

Irena Soprano, Founder, SOLANGEL

This is a wonderful opportunity to present new collections and ideas to a wider audience. Moscow Fashion Week offers an opportunity to build bridges with other designers, manufacturers and potential partners, and this can help develop our business. In addition, participation in a prestigious event like this increases brand awareness and can catch the interest of the international press and fashion critics. Finally, this is a chance to receive feedback from the audience, allowing us to improve our products and align them with market demand.

Zainab Saidulaeva and Gadzhi Huseynov, Co-founders, Measure

Our expectations are high. Overall, participation in Moscow Fashion Week can be a vital catalyst strengthening a brand’s position, expanding its customer pool and building strong ties with the fashion industry. On top of everything else, we are anticipating proposals to participate in international shows under the Fashion Foundation’s partnership programmes.

Sergey Krympov, Co-founder, PART0FYOU

We are planning to make new acquaintances in the fashion industry, establish new business ties and partnerships, and also find new friends. Moscow Fashion Week will help us show our worth, tell Russia and the world that we exist, with our cool and trendy clothes you would love to wear.

Igor Gulyaev, Founder, IGORGULYAEV and GULYAY

Rather than just making an impression and presenting our brand to the general public, we want to start a revolution in the minds of the audience. Moscow Fashion Week is a platform for those not afraid to make a loud and defiant statement. Our company has been an industry leader for 15 years now and it is our duty to set an example for the coming generation and for industry professionals.

Valentina Svale, Designer, SVALE

Moscow Fashion Week will help build stronger ties with potential partners and customers, and show how classy and refined our brand is. We expect feedback and inspiration to help us further improve our collections and offer better products.

Evelyn Valverde, Founder, EVE VALVERDE

Moscow Fashion Week will help us position ourselves as a global brand and cement our commitment to sustainable fashion, and it will certainly open up new opportunities for collaboration and global expansion. Participation in the event provides us with a platform for growing and showcasing our true identity while continuing to build valuable ties with the global fashion community.

What development trends in the business, culture, sustainability or technology formats for your business are you most interested in right now?

Lilia Kisselenko, Founder, KISSELENKO

For many years, we have been working closely with the museums of St. Petersburg, including the Hermitage, Tsarskoe Selo and the Ethnographic Museum. This work is inspirational and fruitful for everyone involved, so we hope it will continue. It would be interesting to partner with theatres be-cause even classical plays are better perceived by the audience when the costumes and theatricals are designed in a modern style.

Alena Chipura, Founder, BÜRO UNIQUE

We are now working on demi-couture, cocktail and evening fashion lines. We find them compelling because they essentially offer limitless opportunities for creativity and “artistic” interpretation of fashion.

Zainab Saidulaeva and Gadzhi Huseynov, Co-founders, Measure

We have deep ties with Russian institutions, museums and foundations that focus on preserving cultural heritage. Some of our products are displayed at the History of Russian Design exhibition at the New Tretyakov Gallery. We are now preparing our first performance in St. Petersburg, in partnership with the Daira Oriental Art Festival.

The concept of our brand is based on sustainable development principles. This applies to both the choice of fabric suppliers and support for local businesses, close to zero-waste manufacturing and improved clothing pieces with leftover fabrics. Plus, we are a co-organizer of the Makhachkala Eco Festival.

Igor Gulyaev, Founder, IGORGULYAEV and GULYAY

We experiment with new materials, recycling and sustainability, and not just to appear as environmentally friendly but also to build up the courage to look into the future. Our path is a mix of technology, fashion and art. We don’t want to be “just another brand” – we want to create something memorable.

Evelyn Valverde, Founder, EVE VALVERDE

We would like to bring our products to new markets, mostly Europe, North and South America. We know for sure that our unique collections will resonate with people who value authenticity and social responsibility. The inspiration we draw from Costa Rican plants, animals and traditions is at the core of our creative processes. We design our products to tell stories that connect international audiences to the cultural diversity of our land.

Raegita Oktora Fadillah, Creative Director, RAEGITAZORO

We focus on sustainable development to restore deteriorating ecosystems and improve people’s health around the globe. We recycle leftover fabrics collected over the years to create beautiful new garments.

Inclusion is one of the key narratives in today’s fashion. Is it crucial for your brand? Have you had any collections that reflect inclusion and physical tolerance?

Alexandra Serova, CEO, Alexandra Serova Fashion House

Our brand specializes in tailoring clothes to personal measurements. We bear in mind all the unique details of our female customers’ figures in order to highlight their beauty and add confidence through perfectly fitting clothes.

Sergey Krympov, Co-founder, PART0FYOU

You should always remember this aspect of inclusion but not try to please everyone: instead of seeming artificial, it must be sincere and heartfelt. In our inclusive approach, we decided to give preference to tall people: this is our personal trigger. A man or woman taller than average really struggles to find trousers that are long enough. We work to meet this demand. At the same time, we try to minimize losses among the majority audience, which is why we prefer not to hem our long dresses so that the customer can adjust them to their desired length in a couple of minutes at the nearest tailor’s shop. This approach keeps everyone happy because, unfortunately, there is no way to add an extra inch to a finished garment.

Alexandra Lavrova, Creative Director, ARNGOLDT

My middle son was born with only the right side of his heart and, in the six years of his life, he has never felt any different from others. We gave him opportunities to grow and grew together with him all the time. For me, inclusion is about love and acceptance. For example, we love our staff a lot and are always understanding when someone prefers to work from home. And, of course, we truly love our customers. We accept them in all shapes and size and will tailor any piece to fit any figure.

Valentina Mukhovikova, Founder, FASHION REBELS

We are constantly working to expand our size range. We add suiting materials in stretch cotton to our collection and design skirts and trousers with an adjustable waistline. We use a special template grading system that takes account of the features of different size female figures to ensure our customers feel maximum comfort in any of the garments.

Raegita Oktora Fadillah, Creative Director, RAEGITAZORO

I came to the fashion world to create clothes that would suit petite figures like mine.
Later, the brand RAEGITAZORO released unisex plus-sized garments and began introducing plus-sized clothes for everyone.

What does the fashion industry today need in order to become inclusive? 

Zuhat Asekova, Founder, Zuhat

To be more open and establish a dialogue between its stakeholders, learn to listen to your opponent. Less snobbishness and a more global desire to make this world a better place.

Zainab Saidulaeva and Gadzhi Huseynov, Co-founders, Measure

It’s important to make inclusion not just a marketing trick but part of your brand’s vision. People must see it not only in your products but also in communications and employee relations.

Alexandra Lavrova, Creative Director, ARNGOLDT

The fashion industry is really short of professional staff. There are very few specialists with skilled hands. And you need to protect them even if, let’s say, they can only work from home. You must give them this opportunity. In addition, teaching crafts to children with special needs would also be a good idea. There are foundations that help with this but we also need government support.

Igor Gulyaev, Founder, IGORGULYAEV and GULYAY

It’s time the industry forgot about perfect bodies found in beauty magazines and started showing real people. We need more courage and sincerity, less Photoshop editing. We should stop putting people in boxes and finally embrace the beauty of diversity. We must create fashion that inspires, supports and connects rather than dictates how things “should be”.

Valentina Mukhovikova, Founder, FASHION REBELS

Dismiss the old stereotypes and views of the human body. Let it breathe and be free. We need to be tolerant to world cultures, explore the customs and traditions of different nations and travel. This helps us expand our understanding of the world, boost tolerance and gain inspiration.

Valentina Svale, Designer, SVALE

Fashion brands should continue to adjust to varied human bodies and cultural contexts. This includes expanding our size ranges, introducing new approaches to design and working with diverse communities. We must not only create clothes for everyone but also establish a dialogue with our customers in order to cater to their real needs and preferences.

Mindful consumption is a global development trend that has a very strong impact on the fashion industry. How eco-friendly is your brand? What do you do to make your business green?

Alena Chipura, Founder, BÜRO UNIQUE

We use eco-friendly materials and recycled textiles in some of our collections. Our brand stands for limiting overconsumption. Many of our products can be both casual and occasionwear – it’s all about the shoes and accessories that you put with them.

Lena Makashova, Founder, HakaMa

Our brand had committed to sustainability long before it became mainstream. We do not overpro-duce, mostly use natural materials and recycle leftovers.

Zuhat Asekova, Founder, Zuhat

We don’t mass produce our products; we sell out our collections and have no leftovers. We use entirely natural fabrics and almost never work with polyester or other synthetic non-degradable fibres.

Lilia Kisselenko, Founder, KISSELENKO

We primarily use natural materials and make clothes in a timeless style, allowing them to be worn for decades. We see proof of that in our customers, who mix pieces from our brand’s collections of different years in their style. This time, we are presenting our collection number 55. And some of our customers still have pieces from the very first collections, which they continue to use, with due care.

Anastasia Kuchugova, Founder, KUCHUGOVA

We only use natural fabrics. All our designs are timeless and each piece remains trendy for years. We do not make mass-market clothes. As a result, we have no overproduction and no issues with recy-cling leftovers. All our clothes are single-piece and exclusive.

Yulia Arkhipova, Owner, Sample Room

We are trying to reduce our carbon footprint. We release collections that will remain trendy for many seasons. We do not create fast fashion or follow its trends.

Alexandra Lavrova, Creative Director, ARNGOLDT

We use lots of vintage and antique trims, bringing 20th century silk cuts and lace from our trips. Most modern materials are produced for fast fashion. They wear out in no time and start to look dated. Our dresses are passed down from generation to generation. Put one on 30 years later and you will still look fashionable. We select our materials with surgical precision. We would rather make fewer dresses but ensure premium quality.

Galina Gankevich and Arman Khachatryan, Founders, duet.by.me

We do not produce our clothes to be stored, so way we don’t overuse materials. We make our outfits to suit our customers’ needs. Plus, we have some pieces we make from customers’ old jeans.

Evelyn Valverde, Founder, EVE VALVERDE

We use natural and eco-friendly materials, such as linen and organic cotton, which are biodegrada-ble. Our clothes are hand-painted, which not only gives them a personal touch but also minimizes our dependence on industrial processes, which tend to generate more waste. We go by the principles of slow fashion, producing small quantities to avoid surplus stock.

A Guide to Fashion Startup

Even reputed fashion designers did not create their brands overnight. It is not enough to be a fashion genius, no matter how extraordinary: you need a set of entrepreneurial skills to launch a brand and build a business. Discussions at the BRICS+ Fashion Summit will address this issue but we also asked the participants in Moscow Fashion Week, which will run alongside the forum, for their recommendations based on their personal experience.

Sergey Krympov, Co-founder, PART0FYOU

We identify as beginner designers but we have already devised a system that helps in our work and in brand development.

  1. The most important thing is always to keep count of everything, both financially and in process terms. You must count every inch of thread and every button. And don’t forget other costs. Creating a collection is half the battle: your main focus must be on marketing, staff, filming quality and so on.

2. For an accurate calculation you must have an idea of what exactly you are going to make. You need a decent assortment matrix where, we believe, each product should differ from those of your competitors.

3. Lots of good and bad but regular actions day after day, consistency, team play, algorithms, formulae and operating principles are all key to success.

Irena Soprano, Founder, SOLANGEL

  1. Define your concept. Look into current trends, study your target audience and competitors. You must have a unique value proposition, so make sure you know what exactly will make your brand unique. This could be style, vision or materials.

2. Create your brand and its identity. Come up with a catchy name and design a professional logo. Decide on the colour palette, fonts and visual style for all marketing materials.

3. Create a collection. Start with sketches and move on to prototypes. Try out different materials and silhouettes. Make sure to use high-quality fabrics and trims. Your brand will be defined by quality.

4. Production. Do your research and select reliable manufacturers that can provide the quality and quantity you need. Plan production stages and timing.

5. Marketing and promotion. Launch your website and social media accounts. Use online platforms to show your work. Create exciting content to attract your audience (blogs, videos, photos).

6. Sales. Determine your distribution channels (online store, boutiques, exhibitions). Set prices that reflect your product’s value and suit your target audience.

7. Feedback and growth. Listen to your customers: collect feedback and build on it when making new collections. Analyze your results: evaluate marketing strategies and sales to understand what is and what isn’t working.

8. Constant learning. Keep an eye on trends: fashion is always changing, so it’s important to stay on top of new trends. Take part in workshops and training sessions to build your skills and expand your network.

Valentina Mukhovikova, Founder, FASHION REBELS

My advice is this: do not disregard numbers. Before you launch a collection or capsule, create an assortment matrix, research the market niche, analyze the demand for each product category and count your budget. Make small batches at first. Have a clear picture of your customer, study their habits and lifestyle in order to create a product they would want to buy. And don’t forget to enjoy the process!

Your checklist: budget, matrix, collection concept, create sketches, buy fabrics and trims, make samples, launch a batch, deliver to outlets. And, as you are launching your product batch, you should also plan filming, marketing integrations, PR strategies and events at the same time…

Evelyn Valverde, Founder, EVE VALVERDE

In the competitive world of fashion, there is always a temptation to follow trends or try to copy what others are doing, but your authenticity is the most valuable thing you have to offer.

Patience is another essential aspect. Building a successful brand takes time, effort and persistence. This is not a straight-line process and you will run into obstacles along the way, but the key is always to keep your goals in sight and to stay on track even when things don’t go as planned.

Finally, when you build your brand, don’t just think about design – bear in mind the story behind each piece you make. The most successful brands are those that tell an insightful and meaningful story.

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